I owe my functioning right hand to the business acumen of Pablo Escobar.
That claim might — indirectly — almost be true. Seven years ago, during a paddle in a jungle pool in the province of Guaviare in Colombia, I slipped and stopped my fall with outstretched fingers that collided with protruding rocks. The result was a bizarre-looking dislocation. My guide drove us back to the nearest town where we found, on a quiet Sunday night, a smart, well-equipped local hospital whose kindly staff X-rayed my hand to rule out fractures. A duty doctor niftily reset the misaligned digits, strapped up my fingers, and sent me on my way with industrial-strength painkillers. All mightily impressive, for a remote region, little visited by tourists, made up of sublime scenery that straddles the open savanna of the Llanos to the north and the deep rainforest of Amazonas.
Colombians, and friends of that stupendously beautiful country, will already be rolling their eyes at the mention of a long-dead drug baron. Not again… Two decades of smart public diplomacy have, with plenty of well-merited success, tried to efface and replace the druggy clichés that tarnished Colombia’s global image. Bear with me: Escobar, finally slain in his native Medellín in 1993, plays a role in this tale, and in the historical landscape that let him and his rival narco-moguls thrive. This story is not about cocaine but land: its grossly unequal distribution, the hunger for enough to make a living and raise a family, and the endemic disorder that stems from far more than a hundred years of thwarted hopes.
That edge-of-jungle backwater boasted amenities several rungs higher than its location and recent history — at the epicentre of a four-way civil conflict — might have led me to expect. During the cocaine boom of the Seventies and Eighties, Escobar and his cartel not only poured the dollars he gained in their billions directly into philanthropic largesse of his own self-interested kind, much of it in Medellín. The almost-incalculable profits of coca cultivation for the cartels drew landless, dispossessed or rack-rented campesinos from around Colombia to out-of-the-way, hard-to-police rural areas. There, a small patch cleared in the forest and planted with the golden bush might yield a reasonable livelihood.
They included Guaviare and neighbouring Caquetá, whose jungles hosted Escobar’s notorious processing complex, Tranquílandia. Wealth from the green leaf that became white powder in Escobar’s hidden labs trickled down, and spread out around long-neglected provinces. It made towns such as the place where I found treatment richer, and better served, than ever before. An alphabet soup of marauding guerrilla forces also fed the cartels with coca: FARC, ELN, AUN. In Guaviare itself, offshoots of the FARC managed the coca supply network (and have still not entirely demobilised). Along with the Colombian army, they plagued villagers beside the broad tree-lined rivers and down the vine-tangled forest tracks. As US-backed social-development funds supplemented the military pushback against drug-trafficking insurgents, such backwaters became frontlines.
The ideological fig-leaves of Left or Right-wing gangs barely masked the mainsprings of a rampant narco-economy. Behind both the pretend-political traffickers and the honest criminal ones lay, and still lies, the search for a living from the nation’s abundant but unfairly-parcelled earth. Colombia’s slow road out of the drug-funded civil strife, that has cost around 250,000 lives over the past half-century, has meant a difficult reckoning with the coca business. In places like Guaviare, the trade offered land, and hope. Eradication, pushed by the Bush-era “Plan Colombia”, utterly failed. Will the controlled tolerance pursued by president Gustavo Petro’s government as part of its push for Paz Total, “total peace”, succeed? Land reforms, especially for indigenous peoples in Guaviare and similar areas, are a key pillar of the Petro platform. Though cartels may go extinct (supplanted by their even more sadistic Mexican counterparts), cocaine cultivation in Colombia continues to boom. It rose in 2023 to 253,000 hectares: two-thirds of the global total, according to the UN drug agency UNODC.
A modest plot of the bush may secure a family’s future. And, as writer-explorer Wade Davis notes in his fine book about the Magdalena river (the waterway that runs through the work, and life, of Gabriel García Márquez): “Land is at the root of all conflict in Colombia.” According to the UN Food and Agriculture Organisation, 10% of the country’s landowners possess 82% of its productive land; Oxfam’s research reckons that 67% of usable land is concentrated into just 0.4% of properties. That makes Colombian earth the most unequally divided on the continent — perhaps on the planet.
Join the discussion
Join like minded readers that support our journalism by becoming a paid subscriber
To join the discussion in the comments, become a paid subscriber.
Join like minded readers that support our journalism, read unlimited articles and enjoy other subscriber-only benefits.
Subscribe