Today there are few Assyrians left in Baghdad to attend Mass, and most avoid churches and holy sites on major holidays. Where they are held, Christmas services are abbreviated and no one lingers afterwards. In Jordan I had met a woman named Rita, who had fled Baghdad in 2015 and recalled: “If we were in public, only the brave ones would dare to whisper: ‘Merry Christmas.’”
Yet everywhere in Iraq, Christians are leaving. While the Kurdish Regional Government is often lauded for its treatment of minorities, the unceasing emigration of Assyrians from its administrative areas points to a different reality on the ground.
Indeed, entire Assyrian villages in the Kurdistan region have emptied in recent years, driven by crushing socio-economic factors, political repression and forced demographic change. While Kurdish officials point Western politicians and journalists to new churches erected in the region as a sign of prosperity and tolerance, in reality Assyrian families are silently packing their bags to leave.
In the northern Nineveh Plain lies a small village called Garmawa which, like Sarsing, was founded by survivors of the Assyrian Genocide over the site of a previous Assyrian village abandoned a century earlier. Garmawa is home to 80 Assyrians who mostly adhere to the Ancient Church of the East; for them, Christmas this year is a deadline.
Ownership deeds to Garmawa and the agricultural lands that surround it were acquired by a non-Assyrian man in the 1940s, since when the villagers have farmed the lands and made payments to the landowner — and his descendants — either with cash or a fixed portion of their product, or a combination of the two. They harvest all sorts of crops, including wheat, barley, rice, melons, and olives, and their produce is bought by the Iraqi Government, although the authorities haven’t paid in full since the rise of ISIS.
Today, Garmawa’s 247 acres of land are up for sale with a massive $2 million price tag. With their own livelihoods and the future of their community at stake, locals are fearful of change — because for Assyrians, change in Iraq has usually led to more suffering.
And what happened in nearby Sarsing does not offer much hope. Here, following the horrific Anfal campaign against the Kurds, agricultural lands were used by the KRG — with the consent of local Assyrians — to house survivors. No strangers to the horror of genocide, the Assyrians welcomed the refugees into their town with the understanding that their stay was temporary — but it didn’t turn out that way, and former guests became landlords seemingly overnight.
Assyrians also suffered from Saddam’s Arabisation campaigns. In the nearby town of Tel Keppe, Sunni Arab populations were relocated to lands outside the historic city core, and their numbers soon dwarfed the Assyrians, many of the original inhabitants forced to sell their properties. There will be no Christmas services in the town of Tel Keppe this year, as too few Assyrians returned after ISIS. Millennia of Christianity simply vanished.
Desperate to regain control over their fate, residents of Garmawa have appealed to the Assyrian diaspora in the US, Australia, Sweden and elsewhere. When a neighboring Assyrian town called Ein-Baqreh went up for sale some years ago, the land was purchased by Assyrian investors, so residents of Garmawa hope that their town might be saved, too, and have even set up a GoFundMe — but it looks like it may be too little, too late. Their future is slipping away.
“We don’t want to leave,” local resident Zaya told me. “My grandfather lived in this home and farmed these lands. This land belongs to Assyrians — we built this town from nothing and brought it to life.”
But this Christmas, even more so than in recent years, Assyrians across Iraq carry the weight of uncertainty about their future in this ancient land. “To know that there is next to nothing we can do to guarantee our very existence here is painful,” Zaya reflected.
Those who plan to celebrate will mark the holiday by attending Mass, exchanging gifts, making traditional date-filled cookies called kileche, and wondering whether this will be their last ever Christmas in their homeland.
Join the discussion
Join like minded readers that support our journalism by becoming a paid subscriber
To join the discussion in the comments, become a paid subscriber.
Join like minded readers that support our journalism, read unlimited articles and enjoy other subscriber-only benefits.
Subscribe