Ukrainian villages hold a special place in the region’s collective imagination. Nikolai Gogol, one of Russian Empire’s foundational authors, established them as a favourite place of demons, witches and the undead. Today, they remain a haven for magical realism and folkloric rites, echoing throughout contemporary Ukrainian literature and war propaganda alike.
When I hitch a ride to the newly liberated villages east of Kharkiv — now the target of Putin’s latest offensive — my companions are surprisingly upbeat. Our driver, Sergey, is from Saltivka, a suburb of Kharkiv most destroyed by the war. “This is a special territory,” another passenger jokes, “you can listen to songs in Russian on the radio.” He puts on a scratched CD and the car is filled with raspy Russian prison chanson.
Beyond the reach of Ukraine’s cities, this is a land that lives by its own rules. Mud and road signs are painted over to confuse Russian forces. Out of the fog emerges a checkpoint with a silhouette of a soldier. Once we drive closer, we see that the soldier isn’t human — it’s a mannequin in a soaked uniform. A human soldier is already approaching, he glances at the “VOLUNTEERS” sign on our car and waves us through.
Normally, during the summer months, these villages play host to “Dacha season”, when the nation’s young families escape the cities while school is out. Perhaps this connection to childhood was what made villages feel so safe when Putin’s forces invaded in 2022. As Timothy Snyder has observed, many Ukrainians initially fled to villages as they instinctively seemed safer than cities.
They were wrong. Undefended, villages bore the brunt of the first months of occupation. In Kharkiv, the Russian Army came from the northeast, subduing Izium, Liman, and finally reaching Kharkiv itself. In October 2022, the Russians were swiftly driven out of the Kharkiv region. Only rusty burnt armour, torture rooms, and cold fog remained.
Once again under Kyiv’s control, many villages remained neglected, like they were for decades. Before the invasion, the village was already dying, succumbing to global urbanisation, inequality, and poverty. As the BBC reported 12 years ago, “none of the government programmes aimed at solving the situation has yet produced real results”. Not much has changed — according to 2021 data, dozens of villages emptied out in Ukraine every year. The reasons are the same as in the entire post-Soviet bloc: isolation, lack of infrastructure, low pensions, and a lack of economic opportunities.
And now, there’s war. The invasion has turned villages into isolated islands amid an ocean of battles and minefields. Some residents have to survive on vegetable gardens and humanitarian aid. Pensions don’t always arrive, and volunteers complained to me about the lack of support from Western NGOs. It’s common to hear the complaint that, while a road in Kyiv hit by a missile can be repaired within a day, in rural areas, homeowners have to repair their burned-down houses themselves. “Nobody is going to do anything in the villages, power lines are broken, there’s no electricity, no water. It’s survival,” Sasha, one of the volunteers for Zlahoda, says.
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SubscribeNot sure what this article is seeking to acheive. Describing conditions is one thing (i.e. the state of devastation of war-torn villages the world over, throughout history) yet using language which suggests ‘abandonment’ or even worse, ‘betrayal’.
What on earth would anyone expect, in the midst of an ongoing conflict? Diversion of resources and attention to each of the dozens of small communities, and away from the immediate need to fight the Russian onslaught?
And the writer says its somehow Kyiv’s fault? please.
I think it’s a disease that internet-addled, social media zombies acquire at some point. They seem to not understand, or are unwilling to accept, that every moment in time, or every thing that happens is part of a very long chain of events that are connected. Thus, in the middle of a war, the author can’t imagine why a small village has not been completely restored yet and that people are suffering. Yes, war is hell.
How are they collaborators? Many, if not a majority, in the East see themselves as “ethnic” Russians. Indeed, 1 million fled to Russia when Russia invaded. From their perspective, the Western-backed government in Kiev is the puppet of a foreign power. There was never a neat line in the black soil which had Russian people on the right and Ukrainians on the left. Why is the writer so wilfully blind to the complexity?
Why are YOU so willfully blind might be more to the point?! The article makes abundantly clear the dilemmas of war for the civilian population. It made very clear that the “collaborators” are in the eyes of the Ukrainian government – but that IS the legally recognised government, not the Russian Invaders. The borders of Ukraine were by the way voted on oblast by oblast in 1991, leaving the most Russian areas voted for independence albeit in some cases by a small margin.
How many more Ukrainians must die or suffer to satisfy the West’s, particularly the US’s, obsession with Russia and expanding NATO. I’m starting to think this is a rhetorical question. The govt that ostensibly represents me could care less how many died.
War is hell but to lay all the blame on the West seems rather rich – exactly what the critics of the West usually say themselves. The Ukrainian state is fighting against the Russian invaders and seeking Western help. What you advocate is outright surrender, which of course Britain could have done to the Germans in World War Two.
Both Russia and Ukraine are complex multi ethnic states with whole host of different identities within them.
Abandoned? Collaborators?
You do realise a vastly bigger, richer and more dangerous country is attacking Ukraine don’t you?
Would Ukraine be in the position it is, if the US had only left it alone?
It wouldn’t be in this position if it hadn’t let go of its nuclear weapons in a cosmically stupid virtue-signal.
No encampments for Ukraine. Ukraine like Israel is fighting for survival against enormous odds, a raging maniac regime in Iran like the one in Russia….so no encampments.
It’s more the people in Gaza that are fighting for survival against enormous odds