In the early 1920s, archaeologists in the Iraqi city of Ur uncovered the remains of a palace built for the princess Ennigaldi-Nanna, daughter of the last Babylonian king. While excavating the palace, which dated from the sixth century BCE, the explorers came upon an unusual chamber with an eroded brick floor covered in rubbish. The room dated to Ennigaldi-Nanna’s era, but tucked safely within its layers of debris they found a collection of objects out of time: a boundary stone from 1400 BCE, cuneiform tablets from 1700 BCE, and a king’s statue from centuries even before that.
“What were we to think?” wrote the archaeologist Leonard Woolley in his record of the excavation. “Here were half a dozen diverse objects found lying on an unbroken brick pavement of the sixth century BC, yet the newest of them was seven hundred years older than the pavement and the earliest perhaps two thousand: the evidence was altogether against their having got there by accident…”
What was behind this mysterious collection? Among these objects lay what Woolley eventually came to call “the key”, a clay cylinder inscribed in the contemporary Babylonian dialect that described another object — a brick — and gave a record of its discovery by the city’s governor. It was, by all accounts, a museum label. This was a museum, itself older than most of the exhibits in the British Museum.
Iraq is a culture so old that even before Classical Greece had reached its zenith, Babylonia’s civilisation was ancient enough to have had its own museum reaching into the already distant past.
Few parts of the world have yielded as impressive an array of artefacts and as prolific a written record of its history as this region, home to a number of cultures collectively referred to as “Ancient Mesopotamia”. Hundreds of thousands of cuneiform tablets and fragments have been unearthed since antiquity, bringing to life civilisations that rose and fell millennia ago. But while the people who impressed those wedges are long gone, their stories are very much alive in the clay they left behind, and in lives recognisable to those we lead today.
I recently met my two-month-old nephew for the first time. He cried his way through every night that I stayed with my brother and sister-in-law, both of whom sported matching bags under their eyes and a shared look of merry shellshock. The baby’s cries roused the dead — of that I have no doubt — and no amount of cooing, changing, feeding or pleading could quiet him. Deprived of sleep and desperate, my sister-in-law opened Spotify one morning and within seconds of hearing the opening chords of Lewis Capaldi’s “Lost on You” the new-born closed his mouth, opened his eyes, and burped.
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