Just as Brooklyn is to Manhattan and Pest is to Buda, the town of Gateshead has long been in the shadow of its grander neighbour across the water. Dr Samuel Johnson, who visited in the eighteenth century, thought the town comprised little more than “a dirty lane leading to Newcastle”, and many still see “the ‘Heed” as little more than a suburb of “the Toon”. JB Priestley’s sniffy comment in 1934 is typical of tourists from the more southerly parts of England: writing of Gateshead in English Journey, he observed that, “no true civilisation could have produced such a town”. It appeared, to him, to have been designed “by an enemy of the human race”. “Insects,” he added, “can do better than this.”
Gateshead may still be overshadowed, but its greatest monument has become legendary. Anthony Gormley’s Angel of the North celebrates its 25th birthday this month: a worthy occasion to remind ourselves that the town in which it stands is a microcosm of North East England, and its guardian angel represents both the past and the future of a region that continues to evolve.
If industrial Gateshead appeared to visitors like Priestley as a squalid anthill, then this was the consequence of the modernity that that had come to Tyneside as early as the seventeenth century. Nearby Whickham has a good claim to be Britain’s first truly industrial society; by 1700, over 75% of the residents worked in mines and factories. The pride of neighbouring Winlaton was Sir Ambrose Crowley’s ironworks, reputedly the greatest manufactory of ironware anywhere in Europe, which churned out pots and pans, shackles for the slave trade, and the nails that held together the wooden walls of the Royal Navy. To house the expanding workforce, a sort of model village sprang up, which prefigured the terraced streets that went on to so characterise the North of England.
Places like Whickham were built on the mountain of coal that lay beneath the rolling landscape of northern County Durham. By 1911, fully one third of the county’s working age population were mining it, sending their output up to the Tyne for export, via the mighty Dunston Staiths in Gateshead. The ACDC frontman Brian Johnson grew up in Dunston and recalls that the pits and steelworks would “declare a truce on Mondays” so washing could be hung out without getting filthy. The quote from Virgil’s Aeneid that appeared on Gateshead’s civic arms — Caput Inter Nubila Condit (“Its head is in the clouds”) — was a nod to the smoke that usually wreathed the town.
Gateshead, then, was a firmly working-class place, a sort of proletarian backstage to the grandeur of Georgian Newcastle, and a place where some of the richest, most mellifluous Geordie is spoken by the natives. Brian Johnson himself has an accent as thick as a submarine window, and the folk culture of Northumbria is replete with references to the children of Gateshead. It is the home of the fictional Cushie Butterfield, the star of a well-known Geordie drinking song. (“She’s a big lass, and a bonnie lass, and she likes her beor.”) It is also the site of that riotous bacchanal of 1862, the famous Blaydon Races — which is the subject of Tyneside’s national anthem — as well as the once-mighty Federation Brewery, a huge structure by the Tyne that looked like a Soviet power plant, and whose output was served in the Palace of Westminster. The town’s traditions run as deep as the coal seams under County Durham.
But Gateshead was also a site of modernism. Thomas Wright, the first astronomer to speculate that faint nebulae were distant galaxies, was educated there. In the nineteenth century, the lightbulb inventor Sir Joseph Swan lived in Low Fell, the town’s grandest suburb, where his house, Underhill, was the first in the world to be illuminated by electricity. And in 1984, a housebound Gateshead pensioner called Jane Snowball became the world’s first online shopper when she took part in an innovative council scheme to place an order from her local Tesco using her TV’s remote control. She bought cornflakes, eggs, and margarine.
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SubscribeI enjoyed this article. I’m not a Brit and know little of the area described by the author, but it seems like the UK equivalent of the US rust belt: left behind by globalization, its once productive residents now despised by the so-called “elites.”
I enjoyed the account of the history of Gateshead and surrounding area. The contributions those people made to industry and technology a century or more ago. The people haven’t changed, only the opportunities. I felt, or imagined, a hidden connection between the current of creativity that powered the achievements of Gateshead over a century ago and the rather striking angel. Almost like that sixty-foot deep foundation is tapped into a subterranean river of energy. The angel seems both benign and potent. Waiting to energize “levelling up” if the UK government ever makes good on its promises.
OMG J, you need to go there, it is not quite Camelot.
But one if the best places in the world for a party
It’s packed with fascinating stuff, IF you know what to look for!
But one if the best places in the world for a party
It’s packed with fascinating stuff, IF you know what to look for!
OMG J, you need to go there, it is not quite Camelot.
I enjoyed this article. I’m not a Brit and know little of the area described by the author, but it seems like the UK equivalent of the US rust belt: left behind by globalization, its once productive residents now despised by the so-called “elites.”
I enjoyed the account of the history of Gateshead and surrounding area. The contributions those people made to industry and technology a century or more ago. The people haven’t changed, only the opportunities. I felt, or imagined, a hidden connection between the current of creativity that powered the achievements of Gateshead over a century ago and the rather striking angel. Almost like that sixty-foot deep foundation is tapped into a subterranean river of energy. The angel seems both benign and potent. Waiting to energize “levelling up” if the UK government ever makes good on its promises.
As a Hampshire-man, born and bred, this delightful article seems to be describing a totally foreign country. In some ways, I guess it is. Despite its comparatively tiny land area, the contrasts in this ancient land are extraordinary.
Bill Bryson has written extensively on that fascinating subject,
When you grow up in Des Moines, Iowa, you notice such things.
Bill Bryson has written extensively on that fascinating subject,
When you grow up in Des Moines, Iowa, you notice such things.
As a Hampshire-man, born and bred, this delightful article seems to be describing a totally foreign country. In some ways, I guess it is. Despite its comparatively tiny land area, the contrasts in this ancient land are extraordinary.
Thing is, it is not very pretty, is it? Let alone beautiful. I don’t find it particularly inspiring either. When I happen to see it I remark, oh there it is, and drive on.
On the other hand, I happen to live near the Kelpies in central Scotland and every time I drive by I say, “OH, THERE THEY ARE” and get unduly distracted. That is a site to behold.
I don’t think you know anything about the place. Or the people. Low Fell is lovely. Once up over Lobley hill you’re into some very nice countryside. Wickham, mentioned in the article is very nice indeed. In many ways it is a better place to live than Newcastle. Both councils use an “arms length housing” system, but Gatesheads’ is far better than that of Newcastle, with a much less antagonistic attitude towards both tenants and leaseholders.
I think Arkadian was referring to the Gormley sculpture. That’s not to say he’s not understanding it in the context of its placement in that area of the country. I doubt Gormley intended it to be “very pretty”.
I have been to Gateshead a few times and I have had a few holidays in that part of the country.
The area can be lovely. The angel… Not so much.
I think Arkadian was referring to the Gormley sculpture. That’s not to say he’s not understanding it in the context of its placement in that area of the country. I doubt Gormley intended it to be “very pretty”.
I have been to Gateshead a few times and I have had a few holidays in that part of the country.
The area can be lovely. The angel… Not so much.
Thank heavens it’s not ‘pretty’. In scripture, angels upon arrival say ‘fear not’. They are scary, even intimidating to behold, although ultimately comforting and inspiring. Like Gormley’s sculpture.
Is it? I must confess, that sculpture does not elicit any of those feelings, but I am sure it is just me.
No. It’s not just you. I’ve driven past it a few times and wondered ‘How much did that rusty monstrosity cost?’.
Taxpayer-funded art is a bad idea.
No. It’s not just you. I’ve driven past it a few times and wondered ‘How much did that rusty monstrosity cost?’.
Taxpayer-funded art is a bad idea.
Is it? I must confess, that sculpture does not elicit any of those feelings, but I am sure it is just me.
I don’t think you know anything about the place. Or the people. Low Fell is lovely. Once up over Lobley hill you’re into some very nice countryside. Wickham, mentioned in the article is very nice indeed. In many ways it is a better place to live than Newcastle. Both councils use an “arms length housing” system, but Gatesheads’ is far better than that of Newcastle, with a much less antagonistic attitude towards both tenants and leaseholders.
Thank heavens it’s not ‘pretty’. In scripture, angels upon arrival say ‘fear not’. They are scary, even intimidating to behold, although ultimately comforting and inspiring. Like Gormley’s sculpture.
Thing is, it is not very pretty, is it? Let alone beautiful. I don’t find it particularly inspiring either. When I happen to see it I remark, oh there it is, and drive on.
On the other hand, I happen to live near the Kelpies in central Scotland and every time I drive by I say, “OH, THERE THEY ARE” and get unduly distracted. That is a site to behold.
It is in fact made of a newish material called weathering steel (trademark ‘Corten’) which is designed to rust to a point but then stop rusting, so that it doesn’t fall down on top of people. I assume that it is hollow and there has to be a good circulation of air inside, even with weathering steel.
The patina is just rust.
It is in fact made of a newish material called weathering steel (trademark ‘Corten’) which is designed to rust to a point but then stop rusting, so that it doesn’t fall down on top of people. I assume that it is hollow and there has to be a good circulation of air inside, even with weathering steel.
The patina is just rust.
Not long after it was erected the local newspaper, The Journal, published a news report on 1st April that the council were selling advertising space on the wings. To enhance credibility, they mocked up an advert on the wings for British Airways Flights.
Many of those who inundated the newspaper to declare their disgust with this appalling proposal didn’t take notice of the date! (This was before the days of social media)
Lots of red faces …. eventually
Or were those faces just patina-ed with rust?
Or were those faces just patina-ed with rust?
Not long after it was erected the local newspaper, The Journal, published a news report on 1st April that the council were selling advertising space on the wings. To enhance credibility, they mocked up an advert on the wings for British Airways Flights.
Many of those who inundated the newspaper to declare their disgust with this appalling proposal didn’t take notice of the date! (This was before the days of social media)
Lots of red faces …. eventually
Thank-you for this article. A picture of Mr. Gormley’s Angel in a guidebook first drew me to the north of England. As a Jew, I went to Gateshead for kosher food!
Thank-you for this article. A picture of Mr. Gormley’s Angel in a guidebook first drew me to the north of England. As a Jew, I went to Gateshead for kosher food!
I might have more faith in your knowledge of ANTONY Gormley if you could spell his name right!
Living “oop north” (Yorkshire), and being old enough to have been an adult when it was erected, I don’t know a single person (aside from some southerners who look at it as a primitive totem marking a native boundary on their way to the Lakes) who regards the angel with anything better than bemused contempt. I drive past it a few times a year and always wonder, if you’ll pardon the Gen Z vernacular: “but Y tho?”
A question this article failed to answer.
If those southerners are heading for the Lakes, they’re going in the wrong direction!
Should’ve turned left off the A1 at Scotch Corner.
Agreed that route would be more logical but going via the A69 is perfectly viable. There do seem to be a lot of Gormley fans down voting criticism of the statue which is not particularly beautiful in a traditional sense.
We should give it to the Greeks as an alternative to the Elgin Marbles.
What have Greeks done to deserve that?
Plundered the EU.
Plundered the EU.
What have Greeks done to deserve that?
We should give it to the Greeks as an alternative to the Elgin Marbles.
Agreed that route would be more logical but going via the A69 is perfectly viable. There do seem to be a lot of Gormley fans down voting criticism of the statue which is not particularly beautiful in a traditional sense.
Again, no idea where the downvotes come from.
The locals are a pretty conservative bunch. I’m surprised the writer didn’t mention the antagonism to the Angel when it was installed. But I think that has changed now, as it’s become a great symbol for the Northeast, physically and culturally.
Personally I love it. Close up it’s not that impressive – it just like a lump of rusted metal. But they chose a great spot for visibility – you get a great view from the A1 as well as the East Coast mainline.
If those southerners are heading for the Lakes, they’re going in the wrong direction!
Should’ve turned left off the A1 at Scotch Corner.
Again, no idea where the downvotes come from.
The locals are a pretty conservative bunch. I’m surprised the writer didn’t mention the antagonism to the Angel when it was installed. But I think that has changed now, as it’s become a great symbol for the Northeast, physically and culturally.
Personally I love it. Close up it’s not that impressive – it just like a lump of rusted metal. But they chose a great spot for visibility – you get a great view from the A1 as well as the East Coast mainline.
Living “oop north” (Yorkshire), and being old enough to have been an adult when it was erected, I don’t know a single person (aside from some southerners who look at it as a primitive totem marking a native boundary on their way to the Lakes) who regards the angel with anything better than bemused contempt. I drive past it a few times a year and always wonder, if you’ll pardon the Gen Z vernacular: “but Y tho?”
A question this article failed to answer.
”It appeared, to him, to have been designed “by an enemy of the human race”. “Insects,” he added, “can do better than this.””
I think this is perfect a description of this most hideous of all sculptures ever erected to blight a skyline. It creeps me out every time I see it…..
”Sir Ambrose Crowley’s ironworks, reputedly the greatest manufactory of ironware anywhere in Europe, which churned out pots and pans, shackles for the slave trade,”
Oh, yes, those three great products of the White Colonialists Industry. haha, what a rather weird article….
Don’t really understand the downvotes here.
Don’t really understand the downvotes here.
”It appeared, to him, to have been designed “by an enemy of the human race”. “Insects,” he added, “can do better than this.””
I think this is perfect a description of this most hideous of all sculptures ever erected to blight a skyline. It creeps me out every time I see it…..
”Sir Ambrose Crowley’s ironworks, reputedly the greatest manufactory of ironware anywhere in Europe, which churned out pots and pans, shackles for the slave trade,”
Oh, yes, those three great products of the White Colonialists Industry. haha, what a rather weird article….