“To gaze into the depths of the sea is, in the imagination, like beholding the vast unknown, and from its most terrible point of view. The submarine gulf is analogous to the realm of night and dreams… There, in the awful silence and darkness, the rude first forms of life, phantom-like, demoniacal, pursue their horrible instincts.”
Victor Hugo had a particular seascape in mind when he wrote these words in Les Travailleurs de la mer (usually translated as Toilers of the Sea). He is describing what his hero Gilliatt sees from the “Douvres”, a set of sea stacks upon which the steamboat Durande flounders as it travels from France to Guernsey. These impressive rock formations are a fictionalised rendering of Les Autelets on the west coast of the island of Sark, with their unobstructed view of the Grand Ruau, one of the world’s most treacherous stretches of water.
It is worth seeing for yourself. Good timekeeping is essential; this area of Sark is only accessible at low tide, and the return route is quickly swallowed up by the swelling waters. Once you have made your way through the natural arch of rock at the Port du Moulin, and clambered over a series of large boulders, Hugo’s “Douvres” rise into view. “The blocks of granite are hideous and enormous,” Hugo writes, “everywhere perpendicular wall — the severe inhospitality of the abyss”.
I was there again on Boxing Day, testing the theory that open-air activity is the best remedy for a hangover. As usual, I wanted to see the small shipwreck near to the Grand Autelet, the larger of these natural landforms. The wreck emerges for only a couple of hours a day, when the tidewater has retreated sufficiently for its spoils to be exposed. It’s more a vague outline than a shipwreck, really; the steel frames that were once welded to the keel are splayed out upon the shore, scabbed with rust and limpets.
There is a kind of poetry in the landscape here at Port du Moulin, something intangible and a little frightening. The shipwreck adds another detail; it seems to represent the indifference of nature to the achievements of human civilisation, a major theme of Toilers of the Sea. It seems apt that this decaying artefact is all that remains of a filmed adaptation of the novel from 1936. Directors Ted Fox and Selwyn Jepson had constructed a replica of the Durande and deliberately crashed it against Les Autelets. The project was eventually abandoned, much like the wreckage of their expensive prop.
Hugo was a masterful storyteller with a keen insight into human nature, but he was also determined to tackle epic themes. In his three greatest works — The Hunchback of Notre-Dame (1831), Les Misérables (1862) and Toilers of the Sea (1866) — he addresses what he describes, from the Greek, as the triple ananke of humankind: the necessities of religion, society and nature. The Hunchback of Notre-Dame denounces the folly of dogmas. Les Misérables depicts the injustice of an oppressive state. Toilers of the Sea explores our eternal conflict with the natural world.
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SubscribeNo doubt the story would be reframed by Hollywood by making Gilliatte a noble man of colour who is cheated of his hoped for marriage to Deruchette by the machinations of the white patriarchal Vicar exercising his white privilege to snatch her away in place of story of the self sacrifice of Gilliatte in the original.
Good to read another dip into the literature of the past by Doyle.
No doubt the story would be reframed by Hollywood by making Gilliatte a noble man of colour who is cheated of his hoped for marriage to Deruchette by the machinations of the white patriarchal Vicar exercising his white privilege to snatch her away in place of story of the self sacrifice of Gilliatte in the original.
Good to read another dip into the literature of the past by Doyle.
Lovely article by Andrew Doyle.
Hugo’s Hautville House abode in St Peter Port is definitely worth a visit. Owned and maintained by the City of Paris, it has recently been lovingly restored and is pretty much as he left it. During the 15 or so years of his exile in Guernsey, and with the help of several local (and even imported) craftsmen, Hugo modelled the whole 3 or 4-storey house to reflect the far reaches of his interests and imagination. Truly something to behold.
Lovely article by Andrew Doyle.
Hugo’s Hautville House abode in St Peter Port is definitely worth a visit. Owned and maintained by the City of Paris, it has recently been lovingly restored and is pretty much as he left it. During the 15 or so years of his exile in Guernsey, and with the help of several local (and even imported) craftsmen, Hugo modelled the whole 3 or 4-storey house to reflect the far reaches of his interests and imagination. Truly something to behold.
But don’t let the overarching theme minimize the unrequited love story that ends on those rocks and ends the story. And don’t let “Toilers” diminish in any way Hugo’s other less read but nonetheless masterworks “The Man Who Laughs” and “Ninety-Six”.
But don’t let the overarching theme minimize the unrequited love story that ends on those rocks and ends the story. And don’t let “Toilers” diminish in any way Hugo’s other less read but nonetheless masterworks “The Man Who Laughs” and “Ninety-Six”.
Having visited Guernsey twice in recent years, the “island” effect, which as Doyle tells us was described superbly by DH Lawrence, is real and must have had a significant effect on Hugo’s writing.
In more recent times, anyone walking along the byways can’t fail to come across numerous abandoned houses with grounds, left to the ravages of nature. These were the dwellings of German officers during the occupation of WW2. That they have been left in this state and not repurposed (i think there’s a moratorium on doing so) tells us something significant about the mindset of those islanders too. These inland dwellings are, of course, in addition to the various fortifications and gun emplacements along the coast built largely with slave labour, plus the horrifying underground hospital dug into bare rock.
If only Hugo had been around in those times, to elicit through his use of language the fundamentals of such tyranny.
Having visited Guernsey twice in recent years, the “island” effect, which as Doyle tells us was described superbly by DH Lawrence, is real and must have had a significant effect on Hugo’s writing.
In more recent times, anyone walking along the byways can’t fail to come across numerous abandoned houses with grounds, left to the ravages of nature. These were the dwellings of German officers during the occupation of WW2. That they have been left in this state and not repurposed (i think there’s a moratorium on doing so) tells us something significant about the mindset of those islanders too. These inland dwellings are, of course, in addition to the various fortifications and gun emplacements along the coast built largely with slave labour, plus the horrifying underground hospital dug into bare rock.
If only Hugo had been around in those times, to elicit through his use of language the fundamentals of such tyranny.
I believe there needs to be a small edit in one of the first paragraphs here. Ships “founder”, not “flounder”.
I feel odd making a snippy little correction like this to a great article by one of my favourite authors and commentators. But as a boy who grew up by the sea in Cape Breton, and who read every shipwreck and sea adventure book in our local library (as I write this I am looking at my bedside table at another shipwreck book), I know my flounderings from my founderings.
I believe there needs to be a small edit in one of the first paragraphs here. Ships “founder”, not “flounder”.
I feel odd making a snippy little correction like this to a great article by one of my favourite authors and commentators. But as a boy who grew up by the sea in Cape Breton, and who read every shipwreck and sea adventure book in our local library (as I write this I am looking at my bedside table at another shipwreck book), I know my flounderings from my founderings.