Southend is an unremarkable sort of place. If anyone knows anything about it, it is that it has the longest pier in the world: necessitated by the extent of the change between high and low tides at the mouth of the Thames estuary, from the days when the purpose of the pier was not to take a stroll and visit an amusement arcade or some other entertainment, but to allow steamers to arrive from London, bearing crowds of cockney day-trippers. They would crowd Southend’s beaches and eat pints of whelks and cockles and winkles, and drink beer and paddle in the sea — for Southend-on-Sea is so called because it is where the River Thames ends and sea begins. If this seems an unduly pre-war conception of the place, it has (compared with other parts of England) evolved slowly. It has the various trappings of modern life — from its drug-dealers to its consumerist vulgarity — but its kiss-me-quick seaside entertainments are the same, and the many streets of salubrious suburban housing largely identical to how they were from the Thirties to the Fifties when the town was represented in parliament by Chips Channon.
The parliamentary seat of Southend West had only three MPs in 86 years, which itself reflects the sense of cultural and community continuity in the area. Channon was succeeded at Westminster by his son Paul, who after almost 40 years himself was succeeded by David Amess, who was murdered doing his job as an MP last Friday. Sir David’s atrocious killing appeared random: we may never know why his murderer settled upon him, and upon committing an act that astonished and horrified quiet, ordinary Southend, which had until then remained in its own distinct corner of Essex, harmlessly going its own way – exactly like its late Member of Parliament. The murder of Jo Cox in 2016 was a comparable atrocity: but insofar as these acts of wickedness can ever have a rationale, her murder was committed by a constituent with a neo-Nazi obsession, who is now serving a whole life sentence, rather than by an outsider who seems to have settled on the MP for Southend West for reasons yet to be determined.
Leigh-on-Sea, the part of the Southend conurbation where Sir David was holding the surgery where he was murdered, still has evocations of this part of the Essex coast from the age before it became suburbanised. Leigh is a place with one of the best qualities of life in the country. The housing stock is mainly of high specification, though not extortionately expensive, and the marine views come with easy proximity to London. Crime is not considered a problem: all of this underlines why the shock of Sir David’s murder has hit the community so hard. It is not merely because of his well-attested popularity, but because this relatively sedate and unpretentious part of Essex is not remotely used to experiencing shocking events of this nature. In a different age, Channon made frequent visits to his constituency — more so than most MPs of the era — and found his constituents diverting. From his occasional descriptions of them — mayors who would like a knighthood and the odd internal wrangling in the Conservative Association — not a lot has changed in that respect either.
Historically, on the main shipping route from the northern continent into London, Leigh was once a prosperous port. These days, quite a few of the local residents have little boats of various descriptions that they play about in on the water. One can see them grounded on the vast mud flats offshore when the tide is out. The North Sea is but a few miles away to the east, and quite a few locals take their craft off past Shoeburyness and Foulness Island, and fish for a hobby. Leigh started off as a fishing village, and what remains of that enterprise notably harvests the cockles that still give visitors the definitive Southend experience.
But, then, in the 18th century, the channels that led to Leigh silted up and the marine trade dried up; while at the same time, tiny Southend, to its east, was becoming a popular resort. Much of old Leigh — vestiges of which still exist in a few wood-framed buildings and in the medieval church — was demolished in the 19th century when one of Southend’s two railways was constructed. It starts at Fenchurch Street and leads through the mainly charmless flatlands of south Essex, calling for the last few decades at the new town of Basildon, which Sir David represented from 1983 until moving on to Southend in 1997. A second railway, from Liverpool Street, takes a more northerly route, through a Brentwood now made famous by the delights of The Only Way Is Essex, and comes into Southend from the north. Their arrival, 140 or so years ago, marked the transformation of the area into part of the commuter belt, and initiated the wave of late Victorian building that has marked out much of outer Southend ever since. It also represented a social change that brought a large, respectable middle class into the area, further waves of which have arrived ever since, their aspirations sustained by the town’s excellent grammar schools. It has also helped secure a Conservative majority in what since 1950 have been Southend’s two parliamentary seats, and which had been held by the party since the constituency was carved out of the former South-East Essex seat in 1918. In political as well as in most other respects, the area is one that over decades has undergone no radical change.
Leigh is also an artists’ colony, with an estimated 70 painters, ceramicists and other creative people working in the town, selling their work through several galleries. Not least because of this, it has become the smart end of Southend; as elsewhere in Essex, the decline of the high street has led to premises being filled with bars and restaurants, and the service economy taking over while many of Southend West’s inhabitants take themselves off to London every day. It’s not exactly the Côte d’Azur, but it serves a remarkably similar purpose for the those who live in and around it. And it is emphatically the sort of place where people don’t get murdered in cold blood, least of all a hugely popular Member of Parliament.
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SubscribeA fine article which reminds us of the nature, and great value, of Essex and its people. ‘Chips’ Channon was an odd customer but Sir David Amess was a fine man, the feelings aroused by whose loss, as the writer notes, are visceral and hard to absorb; I should say beyond comprehension. I was born in Clacton so Essex is close to my heart. Many thanks.
In this respect Jonathan Meades’ “The Joy of Essex” is well worth watching as an affectionate paean to the county. Strange to say, despite being from Kent I have never been to Essex, it was always seen as a sort of black hole of vulgarity, not unlike that portrayed in the infamous Spitting Image song.
A very interesting article: albeit one that perhaps paints an overly rosy image by glossing over Southend’s reputation as a nest of organised crime in recent decades.
Southend has the longest *pleasure* pier in the world.
I’m a Southend lad myself (well, Rochford), and still have family there so visit regularly. My perception is that it hasn’t changed too much over the years, except that inequality may have increased – house prices have shot up, not only in the posher areas like Leigh and Thorpe Bay, and the seafront is smarter and a bit less dodgy than days of yore, but I was shocked walking down the High Street a couple of years ago to see so many beggars (which used to be very unusual).
Not sure I’d ever have described it as an especially low crime area though. I mean there are worse places, but Heffer clearly hasn’t experienced Southend nightlife.
I’m a Southend lad myself (well, Rochford), and still have family there so visit regularly. My perception is that it hasn’t changed too much over the years, except that inequality may have increased – house prices have shot up, not only in the posher areas like Leigh and Thorpe Bay, and the seafront is smarter and a bit less dodgy than days of yore, but I was shocked walking down the High Street a couple of years ago to see so many beggars (which used to be very unusual).
Not sure I’d ever have described it as an especially low crime area though. I mean there are worse places, but Heffer clearly hasn’t experienced Southend nightlife.
Having lived on the opposite side of the estuary for many years I never understood why it wasn’t named Eastend as it is at the eastern end of the Thames and not the south end of anything.
To answer the comment I believe it was literally the south end of Prittlewell; an ancient village to the north. Southend was a “new town” created in the Victorian era by the railway.
I grew up there in the 70s and 80s. Would never describe the place as “sedate”. In a million years. I like Simon Heffer’s writing but I am not sure he knows South East Essex so well, which is understandable.
The various films associated with the Rettendon Turnpike murders of 1995 (eg Essex Boys) and the spoof TV series White Gold about the world of double glazing selling sum up the culture far more as I would see it. I did go back briefly a couple of years ago and agree fully with Simon that it has not changed so much though. Still very 80s in feel.
Sir David was already a local MP (for Basildon) when I left the area at the end of the 80s. So his murder is in many ways a sad landmark from a personal perspective. It’s the loss of an element of continuity from one’s youth when MPs had a much higher local celebrity status than they do today.