Jestina Clayton grew up braiding hair in Sierra Leone. She spent her childhood years there before fleeing the country’s civil war and taking up residence in Centerville, Utah. Once settled, she began braiding hair again to supplement her family’s income, alongside going to college. Sometimes, she’d make almost $5,000 in a year.
In many areas in the United States, a cosmetology license is required to work with hair, but Clayton was told she wouldn’t need one for braiding. In 2009, however, an anonymous email appeared in her inbox: “It is illegal in the state of Utah to do any form of extensions without a valid cosmetology license. Please delete your ad, or you will be reported.” Returning to the state licensing board she was told that she would, in fact, need that license.
The requirement was ridiculous – the mandatory classes would not even teach the techniques used in her braiding, which were, after all, traditional techniques learned in Sierra Leone. And the required coursework was estimated to cost between $9,000 and $19,000. Even at the low end, that’s roughly twice as much as Clayton makes in a good business year.
Clayton turned to the courts, arguing that the occupational licensing requirements infringed on her right to work and earn a living. Finally, three years later, she won a reprieve and returned to braiding.
Luckily, hairdressers in the UK are subject to less regulation than their US counterparts. While they are often required to register with local governments, it is a far less stringent process than obtaining a license. But even having to ask the government for permission before beginning to serve customers is overly bureaucratic.
Overall in the UK, around one in five workers must be licensed for their work. A further fifth that must register before working.
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