Many countries fall silent to honour their war dead at the start of November, but the rituals of remembrance are very different here in Italy. Nothing seems settled. There’s no single event or occasion, only rival dates, ceremonies and stories. Last year in Parma, the city where I live, the local council even removed a plaque to the fallen in the Second World War — because they were from the “wrong” side. Though 4 November is known as the “Day of National Unity”, in short, it never quite feels that way. It’s as if Italians still can’t decide quite what they should be remembering or how.
In one sense, the country commemorates like no other. Ever since I first moved to Parma, in 1999, I’ve been struck by the number of plaques, on streets and bridges, in parks and churches, marking events and occasions. It’s as if there’s a history lesson on every corner. Walking up one of the towers in Bologna, you see signs every few metres marking the names of the builders who fell to their deaths. “Memory, incessant memory,” as Giuseppe Ungaretti, the 20th century poet, once wrote.
Much of this commemoration is localised and deeply-felt, but nationally there seems to be no such emotional connection. The country’s most sacred monument, the gargantuan “Altar of the Fatherland” in Rome, is the most ridiculed building in Italy. With its creamy tiers and steps, it’s been nicknamed “the wedding cake” or “the typewriter”.
That’s echoed by the country’s broader refusal to settle on an established historical narrative. “Every time public attention is drawn back to the past,” the politician and academic Pietro Scoppola once wrote, “polemics arise that almost result in a wish to dissolve the consciousness of national identity”. Those polemics are evident in the many books about the country’s discordant commemorations, from John Foot’s Italy’s Divided Memory to Giovanni Contini’s La Memoria Divisa.
Much of this stems from the First World War and its immediate aftermath. In Britain, the mud and the trenches, the poppies and the poetry, are hewn into our collective consciousness. But in Italy there was a ferocious debate about whether to enter the war at all (it eventually did in 1915). Afterwards, there was an often bloody battle about the meaning of all that sacrifice. During the so-called “Biennio Rosso” — two years of acute political polarisation when strikers and workers were met with brutal repression, often courtesy of proto-fascist gangs — a “war of memorials” began.
Many anarchist and socialist councils erected plaques and monuments that blamed Italy’s 650,000 dead on fat cats and warmongers. The town council of Albano Vercellese, between Milan and Turin, erected a monument that said bluntly: “To the dead who unsuspectingly gave their youth to the cause of capitalism.” Throughout 1919 and 1920, fascists began bombing, shooting or otherwise removing monuments that seemed too anti-militarist. As a result, many plaques were given armed guards. When Aldo Milano, a fascist footballer, tried removing that anti-capitalist commemoration in Albano Vercellese, he was shot dead.
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SubscribeInteresting article. The author misses out half of Italy, the south, which is almost like a different country. I lived right on the south coast for a while, Taranto, and they seemed to see themselves more like Greeks than Italians. I don’t even remember a special day, an Armistice Day: it must have been very low key.
For mini-breaks we often visited Naples. Armistice day or it’s equivalent was on the Sunday preceding 11 November and there were flowers everywhere with many people in black (not meaning blackshirts). It was like a national day of mourning.
An excellent observation. From my understanding, there’s a pretty sharp difference in ethnicity between the south and the north. In America, when we think of ‘Italians’, we’re probably thinking of the southern type, tanned skin, dark hair, etc, because most Italian American immigrants, including those who became known for their organized crime syndicates came from southern Italy or Sicily. As I was explaining to my mother at one point when we were watching something on TV and she commented on how some fellow doesn’t look Italian at all, people from Northern Italy look basically like any generic white person.
Yep. A long time ago, southern Italy was a Greek colony; it still uses the name Magna Grecia. In Taranto there are Ancient Greek ruins under the city, which have been exposed as places to visit. Those in N.Italy look down on people from the South as lazy grifters – which perhaps explains the gangster connections.
That’s because the northerners are descended from the Lombards, a Germanic tribe that conquered the place in the early Middle Ages.
“the Risiera di San Sabba became one of the country’s central exhibits of remembrance: this red-brick rice warehouse was a concentration camp, where political and Jewish prisoners were either murdered or transported to Nazi extermination camps. The Risiera, it’s thought, was responsible for the deaths of up to 5,000 people”
Deportations of Italian Jews to Germany didn’t happen under Mussolini’s Fascist government. It would have happened after Germany occupied north Italy when Italy surrendered in 1943. Prior to the Pact of Steel in 1939 Jews could join the fascist party, and many did.
It’s one reason why conflating fascism with national socialism is historically lazy and inaccurate.
Great post.
Either author doesn’t know Italian history or purposefully ignores it to make his point.
If commies took over in Italy numbers of killed in Risiera would be at least 20 times higher.
Many problems in Italy are due to unified country being so young.
There was not even standard Italian language understood by majority of people.
It took long time for Florentine dielect to become basis of Italian language.
Problem with commemorating anything is not helped by Italians starting and ending wars on different side.
They are not exactly most reliable allies.
Some would argue they are cowards.
Supported by Italian army “performance” in wars.
My brother worked for Fiat.
Many senior people there argued where Europe stops and Africa starts.
40 years ago many said south of Rome.
20 years ago, it was north of Rome.
Now it is not far south of Florence.
It did not help that Italians opted for Euro.
Hardly any GDP growth in 25 years.
Don’t you just love 4th Reich (sorry EU).
I don’t think it’s controversial to call Tito’s massacres of Italians ethnic cleansing, or even genocide.. The author shouldn’t be too nervous about saying such things. This is Unherd, not…any other out,et.
One good turn deserves another. I suspect Tito had that in mind.
Siena’s Palio is an example of a splintered community uniting in a common venture.
They make great coffee tho’.
Just a brilliant article- chapeau